I Must Garden best deer repellent

Introduction

Deer can be a delightful sight in the wild, but when they venture into your garden, they can quickly become a gardener's worst nightmare. The damage caused by deer can leave gardeners feeling frustrated and helpless. However, with the advent of effective deer repellents like I Must Garden, there is now a reliable solution to protect your garden and keep these gentle grazers at bay. In this article, we will explore the benefits and features of I Must Garden deer repellent, which has gained a reputation for effectively deterring deer and preserving the beauty of gardens.

What Sets I Must Garden Deer Repellent Apart?

1. Natural Formulation

I Must Garden deer repellent stands out from the crowd due to its natural formulation. It combines a unique blend of botanical oils, including garlic, cloves, and peppermint, to create a scent that deer find unappealing. Unlike chemical-based repellents, I Must Garden is safe for the environment, plants, and animals, making it an eco-friendly choice for gardeners.

2. Long-Lasting Protection

One of the significant advantages of I Must Garden is its long-lasting protection. The natural oils used in the formulation adhere to plants and surfaces, creating a barrier that repels deer for an extended period. This means fewer applications are required, saving you time and effort in maintaining your garden's defense.

3. Weather-Resistant

I Must Garden deer repellent is designed to withstand various weather conditions. Whether it's rain or shine, the repellent remains effective, ensuring continuous protection for your garden. This durability is crucial for areas with unpredictable weather patterns.

4. Pleasant Aroma to Humans

While deer find the scent of I Must Garden repellent unappealing, it has a pleasant aroma to most humans. This is a welcomed feature as gardeners can apply the repellent without being overwhelmed by unpleasant odors.

I Must Garden best deer repellent will protect your hosts

How to Use I Must Garden Deer Repellent

Applying I Must Garden deer repellent is a simple and straightforward process. Follow these steps to protect your garden effectively:

Step 1: Shake

Shake the I Must Garden deer repellent bottle well to ensure the natural oils are thoroughly mixed, maximizing its potency.

Step 2: Spray

Hold the bottle approximately 18 inches away from the plants and spray the repellent evenly on the foliage. For best results, apply the repellent generously to create a robust barrier.

Step 3: Reapply as Needed

The effectiveness of I Must Garden repellent can vary depending on weather conditions and the level of deer activity in your area. Monitor your garden regularly and reapply the repellent as needed to maintain its protective effect. Generally once or twice a month is all that's needed. Growing season might require more frequent applications.

Customer Testimonials:

"Ever since I started using I Must Garden deer repellent, I have seen a significant decrease in deer damage in my garden. It's a game-changer!" - Sarah, avid gardener.

"I love that I Must Garden is natural and safe for the environment. It gives me peace of mind knowing that I'm not harming the deer or my garden." - John, nature enthusiast.

"I've tried everything! Made many concoctions myself too but I have to say I Must Garden Spice Scent is the best sauce I've ever used. Easy to use (so much easier than the stuff I made, YUK!) and it seems to last a month or so. Thank you, THANK YOU!- Paul B. Pleasantville

"If you have anybody wondering if it's worth using I Must Garden Deer Repellent tell them to call me! Hands down it's the best repellent I've ever used, and I've tried them all! - Janice K. from PA

Conclusion

When it comes to safeguarding your garden from deer, I Must Garden deer repellent emerges as a reliable and eco-friendly choice. With its natural formulation, long-lasting protection, and pleasant aroma to humans, it ticks all the boxes for an effective and user-friendly deer deterrent. Embrace the power of I Must Garden to keep your garden thriving and free from unwanted deer visitors.

Introduction Deer can be a delightful sight in the wild, but when they venture into your garden, they can quickly become a gardener’s worst nightmare. The damage caused by deer can leave gardeners feeling frustrated and helpless. However, with the advent of effective deer repellents like I Must Garden, there is now a reliable solution […]

Delightful members of the buttercup family, hellebores are a fascinating genus with twenty-two wonderful species and hundreds of stunning cultivars. When the weather gets cold, hellebores are amazing plants to have in your garden – not only are they evergreen, but they actually bloom in the dead of winter!

Yellow Hellebores

Hellebores are hardy in zones 4-9 with flowers that bloom for around a month between late November and early April depending on species and climate. Hellebore flowers can be found in gorgeous shades of red, pink, purple, blue, yellow, white, green and even black. Adding to the variety of colors are petal variations which range from solids, speckled, mottled, spotted, or picotee patterns. In addition to a wide range of colors, you can also find hellebore blossoms that have single or double layers of petals. The flowers on hellebores may face upward or downward. Across their native ranges in Europe and Asia, most hellebores flowers gracefully face downward but hybridization has introduced a myriad of cultivars with flowers that boldly face upward. 

baby hellebores
Baby Hellebores

Hellebore plants usually reach around 12 inches tall and wide with some varieties growing to double that size. Their leaves are typically elongated, gracefully facing outwards in dense clusters. Adding to the interest of the plant, even when not in bloom, is the foliage. The foliage may be solid or variegated, some leaves have serrated edges, or soft hairs. Hellebores, especially, Hellebores orientalis, will frequently self-seed filling in a bare area in a few years’ time. Dropping seeds from late spring to early summer they germinate over the winter and the babies show up around the same time as when the parent plants bloom. At this early stage, I like to transplant them to other areas in my garden or share with friends. Additionally, the seedlings provide surprising interest because they can often look amazingly different from the parent plant!

pink hellebore

Hellebores prefer rich, well-draining soil, but don’t need much initial fertilization other than a little compost mixed into the earth around it. These plants grow great around the base of deciduous trees as they enjoy the shade these trees provide in the summer as well as increased light levels in the winter after the trees’ leaves have fallen. Additionally, for downward flowering varieties, many savvy gardeners plant their hellebores on raised beds or atop slopes gaining a better view of downward facing blooms.  

white hellebore

You can technically plant mature hellebores during any time of year as long as the ground isn’t frozen, but fall or spring are the optimal times so that your plants get established before the more extreme temperatures in winter and summer. Space out each plant around 18 inches apart so that they don’t compete for resources, and make sure to keep the crown of the plant above or just slightly below soil level to prevent rotting. Once they're in the ground, water thoroughly but avoid saturating the soil.  

From this point on, give your hellebores around 1 inch of water each week, but hold back until the soil is almost dry if your garden’s getting plenty of natural rainfall.  Hellebores are prone to root rot in wet conditions but can tolerate mild drought once they’re established.  As mature hellebores start to develop new leaves in the spring, go ahead and cut off older, damaged foliage close to the base.  You can also consider deadheading your flowers around this time if you don’t want your plants to reseed.  Just wait until the blossoms have started to decline and cut the base of the flower stem.  Later, during the summer, don’t worry if your plants are looking a little rough.  Many hellebores go dormant around this time in hot climates.  

multicolor hellebore

Hellebores are resistant to deer and rabbits but can face pests such as aphids, leaf miners, and weevils.  However, these pests can be easily controlled by blasting them off with a hose or by applying natural insect control. Hellebore diseases can also generally be avoided with proper pruning, spacing, and not over-watering.  That being said, in the ten years I’ve enjoyed hellebores in my garden, I’ve never had any pest problems and the deer and rabbits don’t touch them. With minimal care, hellebores can provide dazzling winter color for years!  


All parts of Hellebores are toxic to people and pets. In some individuals, they can even cause contact dermatitis. It’s best to wear gloves when handling them.

All parts of Hellebores are toxic to people and pets. In some individuals, they can even cause contact dermatitis. It’s best to wear gloves when handling them.

Delightful members of the buttercup family, hellebores are a fascinating genus with twenty-two wonderful species and hundreds of stunning cultivars. When the weather gets cold, hellebores are amazing plants to have in your garden – not only are they evergreen, but they actually bloom in the dead of winter! Hellebores are hardy in zones 4-9 […]

Violas, Jump Ups, Pansies

Named for rapidly “jumping” up in size as temperatures warm after the winter, johnny jump ups are delightful little favorites for gardeners, especially during the spring! It’s not uncommon to hear the name jump up used interchangeably with viola or pansy, but these names all refer to different, but overlapping, groups of plants.

Johnny Jump Ups - Violas or Pansies?

Yellow Blue Viola
Yellow Blue Viola

Violas are a wildly diverse genus that includes pansies and jump ups and over 500 other species and varieties! With their five-petaled blossoms and heart-shaped leaves, these dainty but surprisingly hardy plants can be found on every continent except Antarctica. 

Yellow Blotch Viola Pansie
Yellow Blotch

While most violas possess small flowers that have evenly spaced petals with two pointing up and three pointing down, pansies are violas with larger blossoms and four upward-pointed petals with only one pointing downward.  Combining aspects of both, jump ups have the flower size of normal violas with the distinctive petal arrangement of pansies.  

Johnny Jump Ups have been cultivated and hybridized from their original versions in Europe and North America into hundreds of new varieties. These varieties usually have flowers with blotches of purple, yellow, white, or blue as well as the occasional pink, red, orange, bronze, or black.  Jump up colors are also often displayed in gorgeous bicolor or even tricolor patterns and sometimes have fancy “whisker” stripe patterns running across their petals.  

Lemon Jump Up
Lemon Jump Up

Most jump up varieties display these amazing colors in both the spring and fall, sometimes even stay in bloom over the summer in cool climates or overwintering in warm climates.  These climate conditions also affect whether or not your jump ups are perennial or annual.  Typically, most varieties are perennial from hardiness zones 4-8 but can sometimes still remain as reseeding annuals from zones 3-9.  

Outside of their use in the garden, these flowers also have a rich history and profound cultural significance.  Viola tricolor, a common jump up species and the wild ancestor of most modern pansies, was first seen in numerous ancient Greek myths mainly centered around themes of love and innocence.  These associations stuck around in people's minds, leading to this species sometimes being called heartsease and even being referenced by Shakespeare in A Midsummer Night’s Dream as an ingredient for a love potion!  

Icy Blue Viola
Icy Blue Viola

Plants in the viola genus are edible and can have a range of beneficial effects on our bodies.  Jump up petals and leaves can be eaten both raw or cooked in a range of dishes, and are high in vitamin A, vitamin C, and antioxidants.  In addition, jump ups also contain various saponins, salicylates, and alkaloids which explain their use in traditional medicine to treat headaches, colds, and skin irritation. 

Tea with Violas

How to Grow Johnny Jump Ups

When choosing the perfect area for your jump ups, keep in mind that these plants are slightly more heat tolerant than their pansy relatives and can generally handle more sun. Jump ups thrive in well-drained and nutrient-rich soil, so supplementing your planting area with compost would be advisable.

Blue Purple Viola
Blue Purple

The best time to sow seeds will depend on your climate. In areas with mild winters, planting during mid-fall will give your seedlings time to become well-established before blooming in the spring.  In areas with harsh winters, you’ll probably have to start your jump ups indoors two months before your projected last frost.  

When starting your jump ups outside, space them out at least 4 inches apart, but if you’re starting indoors, you can plant them as close as 1 inch from each other before transplanting them farther apart outside in the spring!  Either way, make sure that your jump up seeds are never covered by more than a ¼ inch of soil.  

Blue yellow
Blue Yellow

Mist your seeds thoroughly every other day, and for indoor growing, consider covering your tray and using a heat mat to promote germination.  Germination can take anywhere between one to three weeks depending on what jump up variety you have.  These plants generally only need to be watered enough that the top two inches of their soil remains moist, so once your seeds germinate, you can water about once a week.

When planting jump ups purchased from a garden center, it's best to plant in the spring once temperatures are consistently above freezing.  As you’re planting, give your jump ups a thorough watering and consider mixing some compost into the surrounding soil to help them get going. They will thank you with prolific blooms!

Caring for Johnny Jump Ups

Established jump ups are a pretty low-maintenance plant but you will have to keep an eye out for a few key pests and diseases.  The pests include aphids, spider mites, and slugs which can be kept under control by having a healthy garden ecosystem of predators for these insects. The diseases are mainly fungal infections that can be identified by spotting leaves or petal discoloration.  Luckily, these can be easily avoided by removing dead or rotten parts of the plant and by not overwatering or overcrowding them.  

Heartsease Viola
Heartsease

You can prolong their blooming period by deadheading spent flowers. As individual flowers fade, pinch or cut the flowers close to the base. This will encourage the plant to produce more flowers.  Since jump ups are such small plants, ranging from 6-12 inches tall and wide at most, this is actually all the pruning that these plants are ever going to need.

If you do want to harvest your jump ups for food or medicine, unlike deadheading, you’ll want to choose leaves and flowers at their peak and use them as soon as possible! 

All in all, johnny jump ups are remarkably resilient little plants that can find a home in most everyone’s garden. I’m always amazed how such a tiny plant can have such a big impact in my garden, not to mention my heart!

Violas

Named for rapidly “jumping” up in size as temperatures warm after the winter, johnny jump ups are delightful little favorites for gardeners, especially during the spring! It’s not uncommon to hear the name jump up used interchangeably with viola or pansy, but these names all refer to different, but overlapping, groups of plants. Johnny Jump […]

Edgeworthia Chrysantha, also known as Paper Bush or Yellow Daphne, is a deciduous shrub whose fragrant trumpet-shaped, fuzzy flowers form in tight clusters at the ends of upright, leafless stems during the cold days of winter. In summer, it transforms into a glorious neatly, mounding shrub. It is one of those rare garden treasures that can be enjoyed year-round.

Edgeworthia’s fragrant flower

Edgeworthia’s fragrant flowers form in tight clusters at the ends of leafless stems

Edgeworthia is a hardy plant in zones 7-9 (though I know a few living sheltered-lives in zone 6.) The buds start to form in late summer and begin swelling late in the year, just as gardeners are getting the winter blues. By late winter, the shrub boasts soft yellow and white blooms that fade to white. Summer brings attractive, leathery foliage that lasts until fall. The leaves fade and drop and, as the weather turns cold, the parasol-like bud clusters delicately droop their silvery heads over attractive woody stems.

Edgeworthia early blossom

The buds on Edgeworthia start to form in late summer

The bark also rises to the occasion both in aesthetic and function. Its durable fibers are used in Japan to make strong, high-grade paper for a variety of purposes. Current applications include wallpaper and calligraphy paper, but historically it was used to make Japanese bank notes. The paper is handmade beginning with the harvest and steaming of stems in early summer. The fibers of the outer bark are stripped and the inner bark is cooked with soda ash, then turned to pulp. The result is a thin yet durable paper. Edgeworthia stems are quite supple and can also be easily knotted or used in decorative displays.

Edgeworthia will grow best in areas with filtered sun or in shade in rich, organic soil and neutral ph

Edgeworthia will grow in full sun but does best in areas with filtered sun or in shade.

In its native China, Edgeworthia grows along stream banks and forest edges. It can also be found in Japan, Nepal and throughout the Himalayas. This shrub isn’t picky about light. It will grow in full sun, but does best in areas with filtered sun or shade. Growing Edgeworthia along a south- or west-facing wall can produce a stunning effect. It likes rich, organic soil that is consistently moist and well-drained. Older plants will require a less rigorous watering schedule than younger, more tender plants.

Edgeworthia has a sweet intoxicating scent similar to Daphne

Planting Edgeworthia near entryways allows you to readily enjoy its sweet, intoxicating scent.

Edgeworthia can be found at gardening centers in the spring. Consider planting it near entryways or paths to fully enjoy its sweet, intoxicating scent. The fragrance is reminiscent of Daphne, but Edgeworthia is more vigorous and much easier to please, though a bit more sprawling. Some gardeners cover the plant the first winter to ensure success and get a head start on healthy blooms in spring. But, be warned, you may miss the spectacle of icicles forming on the showy silver buds if it’s covered.

Mature bushes are typically an average of 6 feet in height and width, but specimens have been reported as high as 8 feet and beyond, undisturbed. (There’s a massive Edgeworthia growing at Pine Knot Farms in Clarksville, VA. It’s truly an impressive specimen!) The woody stems may sprawl slightly, but are never leggy, and the plants tend to self-regulate to a contained, rounded shape. If the stems start going out of bounds, they can easily be reshaped and kept to a desired size with light pruning. Fortunately, Edgeworthia does not require pruning to thrive, other than the occasional removal of a dead branch.

This impressively large Edgeworthia can be found at Pine Knot Hellebore Farms in Clarksville VA

This impressive Edgeworthia lives at Pine Knot Farms in Clarksville VA.

A mature paper bush can be divided in mid to late winter to make a new plant by digging up the root ball and separating plants at the roots. Ideally, the soil will have a pH of neutral to acidic and you can amend it as needed with compost.

Edgeworthia is not particularly plagued by animals or disease. I have seen reports of earwigs eating the summer leaves but pest problems would be the exception, not the rule, for this easy-going shrub.

There is currently some confusion about the nomenclature of the plant, which includes two varieties that are often referred to synonymously: Edgeworthia Chrysantha and Edgeworthia Papyrifera. Both varieties were submitted for publication around the same time with the designation “chrysantha” referring to the yellow flowers and “papyrifera” to paper-producing bark. To further complicate the debate, both designations have also been listed as Edgeworthia Tomentosa. I’m sticking with Edgeworthia Chrysantha, in accordance with the “first-in-time” rule.

Edgeworthia form neatly mounding shrubs in the summer. Pests and diseases on Edgeworthia are uncommon

Neatly mounding Edgeworthia is equally pleasing in the summer

Edgeworthia is a stunning shrub often showcased at botanical gardens. Here in the Triangle area of North Carolina, you can find specimens in Chapel Hill at the NC Botanical Garden or the University of North Carolina Arboretum, in Durham at the Sarah P. Duke gardens or in Raleigh at the R.C. Raulston Arboretum. Other lovely specimens can be found at the Brooklyn and Atlanta botanical gardens, the Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden in Richmond, VA, and at the Imperial Palace in Tokyo. The next time you visit a botanical garden, I recommend seeking out this lovely and unusual plant.

Edgeworthia is a champion for the garden collector, boasting beauty in various forms year-round. With spring right around the corner, now is the perfect time to begin your love affair with the paper bush. It gives much and requires little, and the heavenly scent is always welcome.

5 of the best reasons to grow Edgeworthia Chrysantha:

  • You live in USDA Zone 7-9 (and 6 if you can provide warmer, sheltered conditions)
  • You have moist, well-drained areas with rich, organic soil and neutral ph
  • You like low-maintenance plants that easily keep to their desired shape
  • You have the space requirements to accommodate a 6 ft wide and high shrub
  • You appreciate having a shrub where pests and diseases are uncommon

Edgeworthia Chrysantha, also known as Paper Bush or Yellow Daphne, is a deciduous shrub whose fragrant trumpet-shaped, fuzzy flowers form in tight clusters at the ends of upright, leafless stems during the cold days of winter. In summer, it transforms into a glorious neatly, mounding shrub. It is one of those rare garden treasures that […]

First things first…

Before we get into simple care instructions, let’s get the pronunciation out of the way. 

Note that the word ends in “i-a” which should technically be pronounced. That being said, I’ve never heard of anyone being arrested by the poinsettia police for saying POIN-SET-TAH. 

Moving on

Bright, scarlet poinsettias appearing around local malls, shopping centers, garden centers, and grocery stores are beautiful markers that the holiday season has arrived.

And indeed, it feels like poinsettias are literally everywhere, which is partly true!  In the US alone, over 42 million potted poinsettias are sold yearly. That's more than 11 plants for every square mile! 

If you need a quick refresher on poinsettia care, follow these guidelines to keep your them looking beautiful throughout the holiday season.

Children and Pets: Pets and small humans should also be a consideration when bringing poinsettias in your home. While poinsettias are not poisonous, they can cause allergic reactions.

According to a study on Poinsettia Exposure from Krenzelok et. al. in 1996, poinsettia poisoning from either ingestion or contact is rarely ever severe in humans.  Of the 22,793 reported poinsettia poisoning cases from the American Association of Poison Control Centers, there were zero fatalities.  But there were 1,732 individuals from this study who did experience mild symptoms. One explanation for these cases might be that some of the more affected individuals may have had a latex allergy. Poinsettias are closely related to the rubber tree which is the source of latex. When the branches of a poinsettia are cut or broken, a milky sap is emitted and it is this sap that can leave a rash upon physical contact with skin.

Take precautions with your family and poinsettias

Poinsettias are mildly toxic to cats and dogs, but their harmful effects are often exaggerated by popular discussion on the topic. Ingestion typically causes drooling as well as vomiting and sometimes, diarrhea. Poinsettias may also cause mild irritation on contact, resulting in swelling, itchiness, and redness.  

That being said, there may be other factors that could lead to a more severe reaction in your pet. The Pet Poison Hotline says it best, “If you think your pet has eaten something potentially toxic, call the Pet Poison Helpline or seek immediate veterinary treatment.”  

Poinsettia care quick guide

Following these simple steps will keep your poinsettias looking just as beautiful as the day you bought them. And just think! You get to do it all over again next year!

For more information about gardening and natural repellents visit imustgarden.com.  

First things first… Before we get into simple care instructions, let’s get the pronunciation out of the way.  Note that the word ends in “i-a” which should technically be pronounced. That being said, I’ve never heard of anyone being arrested by the poinsettia police for saying POIN-SET-TAH.  Moving on Bright, scarlet poinsettias appearing around local […]

Shorter days and crisper evenings tell us that autumn is quickly approaching. One of the most nostalgic fall traditions is carving pumpkins and showing them off for all to see. As I walk and drive around different neighborhoods, it’s always fun to see how houses are decorated - from simple carved pumpkins quietly sitting on a porch step to elaborate displays that rival Macy’s windows! 

protect your halloween decorations from squirrels
Don't let squirrels destroy your Halloween decorations.

Unfortunately, when pumpkins and gourds go on display, they seem to beckon squirrels to come out and play…and chew…and nibble…and destroy! Squirrels are curious, intelligent little creatures and it’s not uncommon for them to investigate new things in their backyard (or on your stairs or porch) and if it’s a tasty pumpkin so much the better! It is food, after all.

Protect your pumpkins from squirrels
Protect your pumpkins from squirrels

Their innate curiosity, not to mention incisors that can grow up to 6” a year, make pumpkins, along with everything else, fair game in the mouth of a squirrel. Squirrels can wreak havoc not only on your décor, but they will also chew on outdoor furniture and cushions, decking, siding, wires and digging up plants and bulbs. 

Don't let your pumpkins get destroyed by squirrels!

I Must Garden Squirrel Repellent will protect your pumpkins

Whether it’s a wreath on your door, a couple of pumpkins, or an ornate display, prevent squirrel damage by spraying with I Must Garden’s Squirrel Repellent.

 I Must Garden Squirrel Repellent can save your halloween decorations
Nothing is safe from Squirrels

The repellent is safe for people and pets and dissuades squirrels from exploring and damaging your decorations. The repellent is a blend of natural ingredients and botanical oils including lemongrass, cedar and clove. While squirrels don’t like the taste or the smell of the repellent, rest assured, it will not harm them. 

How to apply

If you’re creating a display yourself, it’s best to spray the individual decorations prior to assembly. Wait until the pieces are dry and then let your creative genius get to work. Once complete, spray the entire display again. 

Protect your scarecrow from squirrels
Stop squirrels from destroying your Halloween decorations

If you have purchased a wreath or some other potentially enticing decoration, spray the front and back of the wreath. 

Initial applications are most important. Start out with a heavy spray coating all parts of the décor or pumpkins thoroughly. We recommend touching up the displays every other day for a week or two, and then spray weekly. Refrain from watering your displays with a hose or irrigation system and reapply the spray after rainfall. 

Bonus! Protect bulbs from squirrels too!

Fall is also the time to plant spring-blooming bulbs. After keeping the squirrels away from your pumpkins and decorations, the I Must Garden Squirrel Repellent can work double duty on protecting your fall planted bulbs and keeping squirrels from digging them up after they have been planted.

protect bulbs from squirrels
Protecting your bulbs is as easy as dipping in our Squirrel Repellent.

To protect your bulbs, dip them into the repellent. After a 15-minute soak, remove the bulbs from the liquid and let them dry completely before planting.  Pour the repellent back in the bottle for later use. 

The I Must Garden Squirrel Repellent will keep the squirrels away and your decorations looking great all season long! It is available online at www.imustgarden.com and at local independent garden centers. 

I Must Garden Squirrel Repellent will protect:

I Must Garden Squirrel Repellent
I Must Garden Squirrel Repellent

Shorter days and crisper evenings tell us that autumn is quickly approaching. One of the most nostalgic fall traditions is carving pumpkins and showing them off for all to see. As I walk and drive around different neighborhoods, it’s always fun to see how houses are decorated – from simple carved pumpkins quietly sitting on […]

Baptisia, commonly known as wild indigo and false indigo is a genus of about 20 deciduous species. The botanical name baptisia originates from the Greek word bapto, which means to dip or to dye. Blue indigo, (baptisia australis) and yellow indigo, (baptisia tinctoria) were both used to produce dyes by both native Americans and settlers before the introduction of (indigofera tinctoria), which was discovered to be a better quality. Medicinally, it was used to treat tooth ache and nausea and also as an eye wash.

Baptisia Purple Smoke
Baptisia Purple Smoke

Most species grow naturally in open grasslands, woodlands and along roadsides. They are tough and long lived perennials that are rabbit and deer resistant and are loved by bumblebees and hummingbirds which help to pollinate them. They are also heat, humidity and drought resistant once they’re mature. Baptisia have a very wide, natural range to which they seem well adapted, meaning the foliage is pleasant to look at from spring, through summer up until winter. Making this plant suitable for traditional cottage gardens, native plant gardens, and contemporary gardens.

Baptisia can grow up to 4ft in height and can spread up to 3ft at full maturity level. They assume a bush-like appearance that makes it even greater when used as a background for other perennial plants. These beauties require at least 6 hours of full sun a day to thrive although they can also do well in light shade. The ideal types of soils are gravelly, sandy and well drained loamy soils. Presence of acidity in the soil may impend the development of some hybrid species of the plant and a proper awareness of the specifications of one’s choice of Baptisia is important to ensure that correct care is given unto the plant. In instances where over acidity is a problem, adding lime can help improve the chances of survival. 

Baptisia Twilite Prairie Blues
Baptisia Twilite Prairie Blues

Baptisia blooms multicolored flowers, white, (baptisia alba) blue (baptisia australis), purple (baptisia x), and yellow (baptisia tinctoria). These flowers are held upright by racemes or flower spikes which have short stems attaching each flower to the main stalk. The Flower spikes can be 12 to 24 inches tall, and consist of flowers that resemble the pea plant. Blooming occurs for about 5 weeks in late spring to early summer, with most bloom being in the months of March, April or early May. The stems make great cut flowers. If one plans to plant the plain species, which is Blue false indigo (baptisia australis), it would help to create a support for the plant to avoid flopping over during summer. This is likely to happen in places where the soil is too rich, over fertilized or the plant is too shaded. Newer varieties of the plant are  however more resistant.

raceme
ra·ceme rāˈsēm, Noun: a simple inflorescence (as in the lily of the valley) in which the flowers are borne on short stalks of about equal length at equal distances along an elongated axis and open in succession toward the apex.

The baptisia leaves are trifoliate and can be dark blue-green to light yellow-green. The leaflets are slender and oval rounded in shape. These leaves turn black in fall. There is a choice to either trim the bushes for a neater outlook or to maintain the black seed pods for color aesthetic appeal against other plants in the garden.

Baptisia is difficult to transplant due to their fragile root systems. You can propagate by use of fresh seed. Get the seed pods just as the pods split. Then, sow the seeds onto a flat or transfer them onto an outside nursery bed. Plant them at least a quarter inch deep and they will germinate after about 2 weeks.

If fresh seed is not available, chill the seeds for about 6-12 weeks and then scarify the seed. This means to sand down the seed using sand paper or using a knife or  a file. Soak them in hot water for 24 hours to improve germination and then plant them indoors.  The seedlings can be moved onto the garden once the risk of frost has been eliminated. Follow the previously mentioned instructions of planting the seeds at least ¼ inch deep on well-drained seed mix of 3 parts perlite to 1-part peat. Ensure that the heat is about 75`F until the leaves emerge from the ground. The plant, grown from seed, can be slow to establish, taking up to 3 years to produce flowers. But once mature, they adopt the tardiness that makes it all so easy to maintain.

Baptisia bush in bloom

Baptisia can also be propagated by the use of Stem cuttings. However, one should ensure that they acquire their cuttings using proper means as some of the cultivated varieties are patented and licenses ought to be acquired. Ensure that the stem cuts are taken before the new growth becomes too woody and are cut back to the ground in late fall, winter, or early spring before new shoots appear. The cuttings should also be long enough to ensure that at least one set of leaf buds will be below the soil. After, immerse the stem cutting into a rooting hormone and put into a mix of composted bark and peat in 3:1 ratio respectively. Maintain high humidity using a glass jar or a plastic tent. Rooting should occur in about 8 weeks.

Very minimal care is required by the plant after propagation. Water well immediately after planting and let nature take course. Baptisia roots best during spring, when the growth is still soft so be careful to avoid any impact on the soil surface that may impact the growth of the roots. The deep tap-roots which can grow up to 12ft deep, make transplanting, dividing and moving the plant difficult as this could kill the plant.Baptisia is a long lasting and low maintenance genus and can thrive decades after full maturity if not interfered with and in harsh conditions. 

There are three main hybrid varieties of the baptisia species. These are; Purple Smoke" (Baptisia x "Purple Smoke"), also known as the false indigo, which is one of the oldest cultivated varieties and is easily identified as the hybrid species with a purple eye in the center of the blue flowers with charcoal grey stems of the alba. A mature plant of about 4 years can bear up to 50 blooming stalks. Its soil ph. requirements are more on the acidic side. This variant spreads by underground rhizomes and can spread to 4ft in width and 5ft in depth. This cultivar flowers in June or July and has the habit of forming clumps. It takes 2-5 years to achieve full maturity and is excellent for back of the border. The purple smoke combines well with most American native species and blends well with grasses for meadow gardens. This species is great as a cut flower.

"Twilite Prairie blues" (Baptisia × varicolor "Twilite Prairie blues"): this a trademarked cross between B. australis and the yellow Baptisia sphaerocarpa, making purple flowers tinged with buttery yellow; this variant is quite colorful. Three-year-old plants can produce up to 100 blooming stalks in early summer and grows 4-5ft tall creating a bushy clump of blue green leaves and spreads up to 7ft in width. Its bloom lasts for several weeks with a great foliage effect for the rest of the season. It thrives in zones 4-9 in full sun or partial shade. The Twilite prairies blues can tolerate a wide range of soil conditions including summer drought. They are great for both dried and cut flowers, or for a winter effect in the garden.it is great in the middle or back of a sunny border. As it resents any form of disturbance, ensure that you create plenty of space for its growth. Unlicensed propagation for this species is prohibited 

The white Wild Indigo, also Baptisia alba, white false indigo or B. leucantha Is a baptisia species identified by itswhite flowers set against dark stems. The plant is scent free with large flowers of up to eighteen inches long that occur at the top of the plant. Flowers are large and occur at the top of the plant. New sprouts of the plant are very similar to asparagus when they push from the ground during spring. This cultivar has two large stipules at the base of 3-parted leaves, giving the effect of five leaflets rather than three. After the first frost, the entire shrub-like plant turns black, providing a beautiful contrast   in the fall landscape.  As fall progresses to winter, the strong stems crack at the base and winds carry this plant, across the prairie, distributing the seed. This species is mostly found in tallgrass prairie but also occurring in open woodlands and roadsides. Its range is centered in the Midwest and extends south to Texas and Florida.It is known to bloom earlier in the southern parts of its range and later the farther north one goes. The white indigo requires the following Soil pH: Acidic (pH<6.8). Baptisia alba has known to be fatal to cows and irritating to humans, children especially. The level of toxicity however depends on part of plant ingested, season, stage of growth and presence of other toxic substances in the environment such as herbicides, pesticides and other environmental pollutants.

baptisia bud

The deer resistant nature of the Baptisia plant is just but one of the many attractive qualities it possesses. The beauty lies in its adaptability to different weather and soils; the availability of different colors of flowers for the species; Its low maintenance nature and the versatility in relation to other flowers or plants in the garden. Trust the Baptisia to look beautiful wherever! Doesn’t that make you want to explore having these beauties in your garden?!

Baptisia, commonly known as wild indigo and false indigo is a genus of about 20 deciduous species. The botanical name baptisia originates from the Greek word bapto, which means to dip or to dye. Blue indigo, (baptisia australis) and yellow indigo, (baptisia tinctoria) were both used to produce dyes by both native Americans and settlers before the introduction […]

Tartarian aster

Tartarian aster

The Tartarian aster is a hardy, perennial with a long history. It originated in Asia including areas of northern China, southern Siberia, Mongolia, Korea, and Japan as much as 2,000 years ago where it grew across meadows and wetlands. Due to its widespread nature, this flower has taken root in the cultures of these countries. It has become part of the Japanese language of flowers as a symbol of remembrance. And in China, the roots of the plant have long been used medicinally to treat coughs, colds, and infections.

In Greek, aster means star, which is fitting for this genus of flowers that features radiating petals surrounding bright yellow centers. The structure of the blooms in the aster genus is similar to that of daisies or sunflowers which are also in the same, larger family of flowers. However, the asters’ blooms are smaller, usually about 1-2 inches in diameter. The Tartarian aster, in particular, boasts petals in various shades of violet, lavender, and blue. Even when not in bloom, this plant will make an impressive addition to your garden with its large, rough leaves that could be mistaken for tobacco at first glance. Its appearance would fit perfectly into a wildflower garden though it could just as easily be at home amidst a more landscaped lawn. The tall, flowering shoots of this aster make it an ideal choice for cut flowers to cheer any home as the days grow shorter.

In order to flourish, Tartarian asters prefer full sun and moist but well-draining soil. Though this is ideal, they can also tolerate some shade as well as varying soil conditions while still growing strong. The Tartarian aster has a wide reaching hardiness range that includes zones 3-9. In these conditions, the plant can grow up to 6 feet tall and spread about 3 feet wide. So make sure that in addition to giving them enough sun, you give these plants space to grow. This aster will need to be divided every few years to ensure it stays as healthy as possible. If the height of this particular aster is not what you’re looking for, the “Jindai” Tartarian aster boasts the same lavender blooms but only grows to about 4 feet tall.

Like some of the other species of asters, this particular species of aster is fall-blooming, lasting from September possibly into November. To ensure that it lasts that long, make sure to deadhead wilted blooms regularly to encourage new growth. With proper care, this plant could last well into autumn depending on how late in the season your area sees the first frost.

butterflies-love-asters

Butterflies love asters

If you love butterflies, then this plant is for you! Use it to attract monarchs and other species and provide a place for them to eat as they begin their fall migrations. Sadly, pollinators are not the only creatures that might be attracted to this beautiful plant- deer and rabbits may decide your asters are worth a nibble too.

In summary, if you answer yes to the following, the Tartarian aster may be the perfect addition to your garden:

The Tartarian aster is a hardy, perennial with a long history. It originated in Asia including areas of northern China, southern Siberia, Mongolia, Korea, and Japan as much as 2,000 years ago where it grew across meadows and wetlands. Due to its widespread nature, this flower has taken root in the cultures of these countries. […]

The hydrangea (Hydrangea) or hortensia genus is made up of around seventy species of flowering plants. The widely cultivated temperate species are deciduous, but some varieties are evergreen. Most are shrubs, but some are small trees, and some are even woody vines (lianas). There are two flower arrangements in hydrangeas: mopheads and lacecaps. Mopheads are large and round, resembling pom-poms, while lacecaps are round and flat with a center of smaller, subdued flowers, surrounded by a ring of larger flowers. Until recently, mopheads were substantially more popular. Hydrangeas bloom from early spring to late autumn, and flower color in a lot of species is determined by the pH of the soil. Blooms can be white, blue, pink, or light to dark purple. Red hydrangeas can be obtained, but not in hot climates. It is easiest to control the colors of the plants if you grow them in containers, but even then it can be tricky. Generally speaking, lower pH (more acidic) results in blue flowers and higher pH results in pink flowers.
Hydranga-hero
The Bigleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) is the most widely grown with over 600 cultivars mostly of the mophead variety. It is what most people think of when they think of hydrangeas or hortensia. It was originally native to Japan, but is also called the French Hydrangea and Penny Mac. The French created many of the most popular hybrids in the eighteenth century. A number of varieties are suitable for potting, but they also make great border shrubs with their rich green foliage and large flowers, which can be light shades of pink, blue, or purple depending on soil acidity. It performs best in USDA zones 6a through 9b in sun to partial shade with minimal pruning. If you want a bushier specimen, you can remove spent flowers.

Recently, there has been renewed interest in lacecap hydrangeas and some of the American species like the Smooth Hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens) and the Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia). Lacecaps like the Hydrangea marcophylla normalis are considered by some to be easier to landscape with than mopheads because they are more subtle and graceful. The Smooth Hydrangea is great for colder climates and grow naturally from New York to Florida. The flowers are white and form a corymb or panicle. They lack the large, showy, sterile flowers of the Bigleaf, but the corymb is made up of many blooms that resemble snowballs. Oakleaf Hydrangea get much larger (up to twenty-six feet) and have red, bronze, and purple foliage in autumn that persists through winter. The white blooms also appear in panicles, but they can be up to a foot long. The flowers become a rusty color and also persist through winter, making them a great winter garden specimen. They prefer partial to nearly full shade. Smooth and Oakleaf varieties should be pruned in either late winter or early spring.
Hydrangea-lacetop
Depending on the species, some cannot be propagated by seed - mopheads have sterile flowers. Almost all hydrangeas are easy to root. Take a six-inch branch cutting from a branch that didn’t flower and remove the lower leaves. Dip the ends in rooting hormone if you like and then insert them into damp vermiculite or coarse sand. Water the pot and allow it to drain then cover the cutting and pot in plastic. Use stakes to prevent the plastic from touching the leaves. Place them in bright light, but not in the sun. Be careful not to overwater and they should begin to root in as little as two weeks. The hardest part is overwintering the cuttings. It is recommended that you start them early in the summer, so they are stronger during the colder months.

Hydrangea comes from the Greek words for “water” and “jar,” loosely translating to “water barrel.” This either refers to the cup-shaped flowers or to the fact that some varieties need plenty of water. Keep this in mind when planting because hydrangeas need rich, moist soil with partial shade. Depending on how large the species is, they should be spaced three to ten feet apart. During any dry periods, make sure to give the plant plenty of water or the leaves will wilt. Mulch, leaves, or pinestraw will help protect younger plants during the colder months.
Hydranga-1

The hydrangea (Hydrangea) or hortensia genus is made up of around seventy species of flowering plants. The widely cultivated temperate species are deciduous, but some varieties are evergreen. Most are shrubs, but some are small trees, and some are even woody vines (lianas). There are two flower arrangements in hydrangeas: mopheads and lacecaps. Mopheads are […]

Buddleias (Buddleia) or buddlejas are commonly referred to as Butterfly Bushes due to their attractiveness to butterflies. The first variety of buddleia, Buddleia americana, was sent to England from the Caribbean in 1730. There are around 100 species and almost all of them are shrubs around sixteen feet tall. A few species qualify as trees with the largest ones reaching more than ninety feet. There are both deciduous and evergreen varieties, but all have leaves arranged in opposite pairs that are up to twelve inches long. The flowers grow in panicles from four to twenty inches. Individual flowers are small and tube-shaped with the corolla divided into four spreading petals. The flowers come in a variety of colors from shades of white, pink, and red to oranges and yellows. They are usually strongly scented due to being rich in nectar.

Buddleia ©Attaleiv

Buddleia ©Attaleiv


Plants in the buddleia genus are native to the southern United States down to Chile and also Africa and Asia. Since their introduction to Europe in the late 18th century, buddleias have become common garden shrubs and are staples to a modern butterfly garden. Some South American species have longer red flowers that are pollinated by humming birds. The most popular species is probably the Summer Lilac (Buddleia davidii) or Orange Eye, which originated in central China. It has an arching habit and grows to fifteen feet in height. The blooms are scented like honey and range from light purple to darker purple. It has become an invasive species in a number of countries and is considered a weed in Oregon and Washington.

Buddleja  weyeriana 'Sungold' ©Ptelea

Buddleja weyeriana 'Sungold' ©Ptelea

The Orange Ball Buddleia (Buddleia globosa) is another popular variety, native to Chile and Argentina. It is larger than the Summer Lilac and has deep-yellow to orange flowers, which are also heavily scented. It is relatively frost-hardy and is not invasive. In folk medicine, the Orange Ball Buddleia has healing properties. Another notable species is the Fountain Butterfly Bush (Buddleia alternifolia), which is a weeping variety. It originated in China like the Summer Lilac, but it was not introduced to Europe or North America until 1915 and since then it has become very popular in large gardens. When it is not flowering, it resembled a weeping willow due to its long pendulous stems. The flowers are a bright lavender and in very dense clusters. It flowers throughout summer and is very hardy, but prefers a sunny position and loamy soil. Unfortunately, it is less fragrant than the previously mentioned species.
Silver Fountain Butterfly Bush

Silver Fountain Butterfly Bush

In the wild, buddleias grow in rocky ravines, so they do not tolerate soils that retains too much water, especially in winter. They perform best in alkaline soil, but most varieties are otherwise very hardy. Faded flowers need to be deadheaded and they do need pruning, particularly the taller species. Pruning should occur in late-spring and never in the fall. They can be propagated from cuttings. The cuttings should be taken at the end of spring when the soft stems begin to harden. Seek out the newest looking shoots of about six inches in length and trim below the leaf node then snip the top. Insert the cuttings into a horticultural sand and compost mixture for the best results. They root quickly and then can be transplanted. The majority of buddleia varieties are most suited for USDA zones 5 through 10.

Buddleias (Buddleia) or buddlejas are commonly referred to as Butterfly Bushes due to their attractiveness to butterflies. The first variety of buddleia, Buddleia americana, was sent to England from the Caribbean in 1730. There are around 100 species and almost all of them are shrubs around sixteen feet tall. A few species qualify as trees […]